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  #1  
Old 29-10-2004, 13:23
DutchDemon DutchDemon is offline
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Solution to my problem (I'm dumb ^^)

I found what the solution to my problem was (ie: not being able to boot backups): i soldered the A wire to the wrong side of the resistance... so now i soldered it to the right side, and everything is working ^^
well, i havent tried ps1 backups yet, cuz i was too happy it worked :P
the strange thing is, the capacitor next to the scex is still broken. badly. i dont think it's able to work, because the whole side of it is broken off, through the core. yet, it seems to be no problem (or do i have a time-bomb in my house? :P)

i think i would advice other people that have to solder the scex in the v7, to solder it on the capacitor next to it. its a huge lot easier, and as far as i can see, there's a connection between the points anyway (could anyone check that if he gets a v7 on his hands?).

in the end, it was fun to solder the chip. when i broke the capacitor i got a little scared though, but the other stuff was fun
o yeah, i had sucky equipment ^^ i used the soldering thing that came with my matrix infinity shipment, and i didnt use the stuff that makes the tin stick better :P

now i need to think of a good ending for this post.... ...... ..... no idea. bye ^^

Last edited by DutchDemon; 29-10-2004 at 13:27.
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  #2  
Old 29-10-2004, 13:36
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lufcfan lufcfan is offline
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You'd have found it easier to solder to the actual point if you had of used a small enough tip - I have a 0.12mm tip and it's so easy with that
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Old 29-10-2004, 17:13
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The capacitor and resister for the SCEX point are connected on all PS2's.

The cap is mostly just a filter and you should be fine without it, I even remember one of the neo versions told you to remove it altogether.

Soldering to the SCEX point would have been easier like Lufc stated with the right equipment......and even easier if you would have used flux. If you would have been working on a V4, v9 or v10 you would have had a very difficult time soldering the CDX point as they are via's unlike the pads on the v5 and v7.

Anyway glad to hear you got it working.
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  #4  
Old 30-10-2004, 04:39
DutchDemon DutchDemon is offline
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maybe with good equipment soldering to the resistance would be easier, but with my stuff, the capacitor was a whole lot easier
i was just wondering, should i upgrade my chip? or only if i start encountering problems?

Edit: My driv3r backup isnt working... it just gives a black screen.
Ive updated my chip to 1.36, but it gave a black screen before that too. Has anyone managed to backup his driv3r? maybe i did something wrong..

edit: o great. i just found out that no backup is working properly now -.-
it all looks like this. the piece of text is supposed to be in the middle :/
i tried flashing it back to an earlier version but the earliest on the site is 1.3, and there it does that too :'(
anyone has firmware 1.2? (thats what it had before, it worked...)

edit: i found 1.21 on the site, its working now. still curious as to what the problem is though....
if i look at the patch logs, then this is changed inbetween 1.3 and 1.21, so it has to be one of those...
- ATAD auto patch.
- HDD browser support.
- PS2 color/videomode fix.
- GameAccellerator function for PAL machines (beta).
- Selectable default boot mode.
- Default language selection for FastBoot/MC applications.
- Selectable pad detect time.
- DEV1 compatible mode for MC applications.
- Infinity options configuration screen.

since it has something to do with the displaying, i guess it would be the PS2 color/videomode fix... no idea why it makes it wrong for me though..

Last edited by DutchDemon; 30-10-2004 at 07:18.
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Old 30-10-2004, 14:06
DutchDemon DutchDemon is offline
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does anyone have any idea why driv3r isnt working?
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Old 30-10-2004, 17:37
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Just make another image and reburn - sounds like a bad burn that's all
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[B][SIZE=4][COLOR=#ff0000][COLOR=seagreen]360 DVD Drive Fw.[/COLOR] [COLOR=orange]Upgraded/Recovered/Restored -[/COLOR] Bad Flash? No Problem! [COLOR=blue]PM for info[/COLOR][/COLOR][/SIZE][/B]

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