help with ps2 burning

[jediuk]

Hi can any one help me I try to burn ps2 games but I can not even get past the Extract Disc/Tracks/Sectors part. I follow the instuctions (the one this site). But when I start to save the image to your hard-drive in CDRWin. It comes up Error: Unable to analyze disc layout illegal track type encountered. Can any one please help?

[buzzon]

is the game in dvd format if so than you will need a dvd burner to copy the game or a dvd rom to read the disk and then use your burner to rip it on to a cdr. tutorials can be found here http://www.psxcopyworld.co.uk

[xboxps3gba]

get clone cd read it with clone and write it with cdrwin

[DJB14336]

Best combination I've found, pretty much "idiot proof"

FIRST AND FOREMOST GET A MOD CHIP SOLUTION INSTALLED!!! EVEN IF IT IS JUST THE NO SOLDER PLUG-IN (FYI, the one for v5 Ps2's is on sale for $10, plus $5 for shipping in the US: http://www.modchipinc.com/pages/nosolder.htm) You will need a GAMESHARK2 or ACTION REPLAY2 FOR ANYTHING BUT THE MESSIAH TYPE MOD'S THE KNIFE TRICK WORKS, BUT YOU STIL HAVE TO PATCH SOME IMAGES, AND YOU CAN RUIN THE TRACK THAT GUIDES THEY TRAY PIN OR DISLODGE THE RUBBER GROMMETS THAT STABILIZE THE FRONT EDGE OF THE TRAY, WHICH INCREASES READ ERROR RATE!!!

1.) USE CLONECD
The new version is a bit weird to use--if you have to change any settings you have to right-click the profile, then edit it. I recommend snagging an older version between 2.8 and 4.0. I use version 2.8.3.1--it's pretty much going to copy the disc the way it should be because it has limited options. MAKE SURE YOUR DRIVE IS COMPATIBLE!! It will list the capabilities of your drive in the drive info section. In older versions, there is a button with a drive image and the letter "i" on the read and write pages. Click this to view the drive info. On the newer versions, I think it was in a drop down list under tools, or it displays info to the right when you choose the source/destination drives--pretty self-explanatory, yes/no for CloneCD features compatability will be listed. If not, you will need CDRWIN--GET VERSION 3.9, unless the Version 4 FINAL has been released--double check the compatability list. This is mostly important for whether CDRWIN will be able to retrieve sub-channel data, can control error correction, and if it can write in DAO mode. I had trouble with the 4.x version I had, only to find out it was still in beta at the time--uninstalled and got ver 3.9, and it works like a charm. I prefer CloneCD because it requires fewer changes, and it reads from my DVD-ROM accurately--I can load the source in one drive, the blank in the burner, open CloneCD, click disc to disk copy, start burning (it remembers settings automatically), and walk away--it plays a little tune when it's done, and ejects the disc for me!

Only read subchannels for audio and data--do not use fast error skip (disable error correction schemes) and do not use any intelligent sector algorithms or jitter correction schemes....etc. Amplify weak sectors may pop up somewhere, depending on whether it is legally allowed in your region--this may help with some copy protection schemes, you just have to try it with and without if it is available. Always read at lowest speed, use your newest drive as source reader, or just use the burner to read.

Make sure the image is copied to the hard drive first--these insures proper handling of subchannel data, insures a consistent transfer rate...all kind of reasons--DO NOT COPY ON THE FLY!!

Burn in DAO-RAW Mode (ISO9660 format if option present) at LOWEST SPEED--again this insures consistent data rate---gotta do all you can to reduce wear and tear on your laser! Always close the last session, and don't do any other weird calibrations or regeneration algorithms. If you have questionable quality of media, you can try laser calibration, but not reccomended--if it reads wrong, it may not burn "deep enough", so to speak. Burn Proof/JustLink can be used if you are getting underflow, I enable it just to be safe. No additional buffering should be needed, since you are burning at slowest rate available--this really only benefits On-the-Fly copy and over 4x burns anyway.

2.} VERY IMPORTANT NOTE--GET HIGH QUALITY MEDIA!!!

I just started Using Maxell 650 MB 24X Media--gold tops, bottom is a bit gold to silver in color. They come in a 10 Pack with jewel cases with UPC #25215-62040, disc has product number in center gold ring on top: RJD74M-50013. Yes, that's right 650 MB--NOT 700MB discs. The originals are 74min CD's, not 80min--the higher capacity has a tighter track layout. Remember, we want to REDUCE STRAIN ON THE LASER. These are working flawlessly for my PSX backups, and my PS2's are running smoother, quieter and appear to be loading slightly faster as well. I highly recommend a major name brand, and one of the higher quality lines (ie: Verbatim DATA-life versus their VALUE-life line--there is a reason for the name change!).

Regardless of whether you are looking for CD-R or DVD-R, you want to get blanks that will reflect as much of the laser back as possible. Don't compare the reflectivity off the clear side of the disc--what matters is the reflecivity THROUGH THE DYE--Near silver bottom is not always the best. Some have had better success with slightly green or blue media. One good way to compare is to judge the spectral rainbow effect you see when you flip the disc around, and how strong a reflection of yourself is present when you look directly at the bottom of the disc--you want to see LESS OF YOU, and a BRIGHTER RAINBOW PATTERN. Another good check is the quality of the reflection surface itself--some allow alot of light to pass through the substrate--obviously not a good thing. Hold the disc up towards a moderately bright light source (overhead 60 watt light works well). If you see the image of the light fairly clearly (like looking through a heavily tinted window), you might want to steer clear of that one. If the image is diffused or (better) not distinguishable--GRAB IT AND RUN WITH IT! One last thing to consider is the thickness/weight of the media also--PSX/PS2 CD's are thin and light. Heavier, thicker discs will sometimes roar in the box--obviously no one wants to listen to that, not to mention the extra wear on the motor! Basic rule of thumb, make sure the drive doesn't have to work too hard to retrieve the data.

GOOD LUCK!!