I have gone through and checked the fuses. The only irregularity was that fuse PS5 had continuity but at about 6.5 ohms. The rest were all good at less than 0.2 ohms. Does this mean that PS5 is bad? Also does anybody have the power levels for the four pins from the power supply so I can check these?

I'm not a huge expert on the subject but apparently there's 2 lasers in the laser head, a dvd and a cd one. Could be the dvd one flashes up but the cd one doesn't.

I'm not a PS2 expert(you know that) but I would have to say that a fuse showing 6.5 ohms with no power on it is probably going to open fully under a load:confused: :confused: Maybe we/you can check the same fuse on your system later...

OK, it's probably not the recomended way to check a fuse. I took the fuse that was regestering 6.5 ohms and removed it. Unplugged the laser, which I am assuming the bad pot cause the fuse to blow, or someone tried adjusting the pot to far cause they thought there laser was gone when it was a fuse. Then I soldered a peice of my 32 gauge wire between the points where the fuse was, and then reassembled the PS2. Turn it on and presto, I got a screen again. I have seen a place in England that is selling the fuses I need but at 1.5 amp, not 1.2 amp like the original. This difference I am sure will not matter but I would prefer somewhere in the US bacause shipping does not make sense for a $5 part, they are only sold in 5 packs. Also it would be handy to get the laser and fuses from the same place. There lasers where about $15 more than other places. Any suggestion are appreciated.

So, you did take my advice and try that, huh;)

Had to do something. Gets boring wiating around all day doing nothing but thinking about PS2's

good to hear u know wot the problem is.

Also relieved to hear that my advice worked!

Best thing now is to drop in a reconditioned laser and sell it on.

Version 3's r okay if u just want to use originals but for backups they ain't that good.

i bought a broken unit off ebay dose the same thing what fuses was the ones that went to the audio/video ?

You MIGHT be able to save the laser by soldering a 800 Ohm
resistor to where the POT was ( a very delicate soldering job ).

Nah just get a new laser. You never know what damage was done to the diode with the pot like that, or the coils may now be shorted and that’s the ultimate reason why the fuse blew and soldering a resister in the pots place will do nothing for the diode or the coils and it could just blow the brand new fuse your about to put in again. Then you’re out another fuse and another order for a new one to fix it again. I would just get the laser and fuse from the same place if I could so what if it’s another $15 at least it will be one shipping fee.

I would try it, but then I'd never pay for a replacement fuse either, got a junk room
full of parts! I'm sure fuses are pennies compared to replacement lasers.

Also, If I did need to buy a laser for a system like this, I would test the board with
a working laser first. Just because the browser loads doesn't mean the laser control
circuits are working. Try to get your hands on a V1-4 laser to test before you spend
any money, if at all possible.