View Full Version : want to get dms4 se pro but i have some questions
I'm getting a ps2, if I get a slimline, and want to load games from hdd using dev. 2. What would I need to do? Since the slimline has an ethernet port instead of a slot for the network adapter.
Also, would I need to do any mods to the lens to prevent it from burning out in the future? If I decide to get a large ps2 model, would I need to do some kind of laser fix on that as well?
the new pstwos do not have an ide controller chip if you want to play games off a hd then you should get a big ps2 used you will not need to do any laser fixes
This is going to take some trade-offs.
Firstly, if you want a hard drive in your slim PS2, you'll need a v12-13 model which can be modded with a HDDConnect kit to allow a full-size IDE Hard Disk to be fitted. However, these models are notoriously poor with their lasers, and so a protection circuit will need to be fitted - the best being the Slimfix v4 - stay away from ANYTHING else!
Otherwise, go for a new console (v15-16) as these won't need the protection circuit on the laser IC Circuits, however these cannot have a Hard Disk fitted. It's essentially a trade-off decision which you will need to make - although with a protection fix on an older machine, it should prove just as reliable as a newer one but you'll only find a v12-13 as a used machine now i'm afraid. :(
Also, if you're going to install yourself be VERY careful. The PCBs inside the PS2 have some EXTREMELY small and delicate points to solder to. The DMS4 is also very picky with installs, and so anything less than perfect will more than likely result in RSOD and Ground Bounce problems so if you do decide to have a DMS4 chip, ensure you get a pro to install unless you have done these things before.
On a final note, i would personally look at either a Matrix Infinity or Crystal Chip 1.1/2.0 as these are better chips than the DMS IMHO.
Hope that helps...
lufcfan :)
what makes them better? the main reason I am getting teh dms4 se pro is because I might need the dev 2 option. and I want to play my backups of my originals. I heard the crystal only plays homebrew
Infinity also supports the Dev2 mode you're looking for - and with a 'hacked' firmware which can easily be found, Crystal also plays backups. Infinity does also when flashed with a firmware from the Matrix teams website. DMS4 doesn't support backups out-of-the-box either. You need a 'Toxic' firmware (which is essentially the same as a hacked BIOS on the Crystal - so what you've heard isn't true).
There are several reasons for the Infinity and Crystal being the better chips...
1. Reliability - Infinity and CC are both hugely more reliable than DMS4 chips. They don't suffer from Ground Bounce issues, there are many reports of DMS chips being DOA and have been shipped from the factory bad flashed on far too many occasions. This is not good business practise.
2. Support - Infinity and CC are developed by teams which have an ethical stance towards their customers. If you have any issues, these teams have dedicated support personel who will answer your queries in a timely fashion - such things cannot be said of the DMS team who like to take your money and hide.
3. Software - Updates for the Infinity and CC come around in regular intervals and code is constantly updated and optimised. These chips are also easy to use, and in terms of the CC, the chip is open-source so many alternative and hacked firmwares can be found and used as deemed fit by the end user.
4. Price - The DMS4 is by FAR the most expensive chip in the market. Quite frankly, the game has moved on and there are better chips out there for a lot less cash.
After all, it's your choice - but if it were me I'd forget the DMS...
I read that post a minute after ordering the dms4, well, you've convinced me, going to try and email the person to cancel the order and send me the money back. Going to try the matrix infinity.
Do so... you won't regret it.
thanks for the help. One more question, if my ps2 is a v9-10, the romeo mod, all I need to do is lift up pin 17, solder a wire to the pin and connect it to a 5 volt point? Do I need to cut any traces on teh pcb? I saw that somewhere, but when I checked another website, it never had that part.
You are correct - you only need to lift Pin 17 - no cutting of traces required. This can then be soldered to any point on the motherboard which supplies 5v. The diagrams of which are easy to find online.
The easiest way to do it is to get a small pin, heat the base of the leg with the soldering iron, and push the pin behind the leg and pry it up. You should find it separates without any problems. Then, carefully bend the leg up so it's parallel with the motherboard then solder your wire from Pin 17 to the 5v point of your choosing. The most common point is a VIA just behind the LA6508 chip - just be careful as VIAs can be easily destroyed with ill-preparation or too much heat (and it doesn't take much).
If you need any more help or tips etc, then just post your questions here and i'll be happy to help you through the process - don't be stuck, just ask away...
Hope that helps...
LUFCfan :)
I read on divineo.cn that the matrix infinity supports HDD only on v1-10s what about 11? Thats still a large ps2 right? The reason I ask is becuse I am buying a ps2 from ebay, and I want to know in advanced, just in case the ps2 is a v11.
http://www.divineo.cn/cgi-bin/div-cn/ps2-minfi.html
as you can see from teh description is says it supports v1-10 consoles. I'm presuming that v1-11 are fat ps2s' while the v12 onwards are the slim?
It's HUGELY unlikely to be a v11 (I don't think they were even released in Europe anyway)...
Essentially, a v11 is a v10 machine with a modified DVD-ROM drive which contains a laser unit with a strange resemblance to those found in Sony standalone DVD Players. I think the BIOS also had a small revision but either way, you'll still be covered. A lot of people class the v10/11 together anyway.
received the matrix infinity, still no ps2 received yet.
I should use 30awg kynar for the whole mod? I read somewhere that the ground and 3.3v should use a larger wire, is this true?
Thanks
Hi there,
As the Matrix Infinity only draws 3.3v for power, 30AWG Kynar can be used for the +3.3v wire. As for the ground wire, it would be advisable to link this pad directly to a ground surface on the board as opposed to linking it with a wire. It not only anchors the chip in place a lot better, but also provides the shortest path to ground. Any exposed golden edge around the edge of the board can be scraped back and the ground pad linked there.
To do this, tin the pad on the chip, scrape the lacquer back on the motherboard edge and place a small amount of solder in a spot on the exposed area. Then, tape the chip in place so the ground pad and the small spot of solder on the edge of the board line up. Now, add small amounts of solder onto the spot at the edge of the board until the spot becomes level with the GND pad on the chip. With your soldering iron, simply tease the solder across to bridge the gap (add a small amount of solder if necessary). You should find that a neat solder bridge forms between the 'GND' pad on the chip and the edge of the motherboard. This is by far the best way to connect the chip to ground. (If you need a picture to show you what I mean, I can show you one).
As I say, 30AWG kynar is perfectly fine for the rest of the install including the power line...
Hope that helps...
LUFCfan :)
could you please show me a picture, I'm having a hard time imagining what it would look like
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/playstationplace/Closeup.jpg
I took a picture from one of my Infinity installs to show you what I mean. Note the GND pad - that's what it should look like when completed.
P.S.: You may also want to check your Infinity against the one shown. The one above is a genuine Infinity chip - if it doesn't look like that, it's a clone (so don't install it). Just a quick tip :)
The chip is the same.
That looks bloody awesome. I don't think I can do a mod that good. My only soldering practising I have, I soldered together a digg button electronic kit. a strobe like electronic kit and a psone console with the aladdin one chip.
I think i'll be ok though. you used a glue gun right? I presume its safe to use in a pcb, I think I'll just use electronic tape to make my wires look neat like that.
tbh after seeing the picture I'm kinda scared to try that gnd method lol. I understand your method now that I have seen the picture though.
You'll probably be OK as you say. :)
Yeah, that's hot glue and it's perfectly fine to use on the PCB of the PS2. Electrical tape is fine too.
The tip to get wires like that is actually very simple. Place your chip in the correct position on the motherboard (between the 4 copper ground pads at the far end of the board on slim PS2s or between the BIOS and drive controller (LB/BA chip) on older 'chubby' models. Solder all wires directly to the points shown on the diagram obtained from the mod suppliers website and leave them quite long (but don't connect them to the chip yet!) Now if you look at the board, you'll notice 2 or 3 main groups of wires (BIOS, C/DVD Controller and PSOne BGA wires). All you do, is group these wires together and lay them out 'IDE Cable style' and tape or glue them in place. Once they're bunched, its easy to group them, bend them into the appropriate place. The points on the chip are designed so that when you lay them out in this manner, the wire on the inside goes to the first point and the outside wire to the last point - and eventually looks like mine above. :)
Give it a go, take your time and I think you'll be pleasantly suprised with what you can do... :D
Hi, I got a diagram from the matrix infinity website. The solder trick you showed is on a slim ps2? I don't think you can do that on that version ps2. Also, on the diagram, it shows a point called the scex point, what is that referring to?
http://bayimg.com/jAbhFaABL
Hi,
Yes you can do that on a non-slim PS2, however the ground point is in the middle of the board as opposed to the edge. On a 'chubby'-type PS2, at the edge of the board is long exposed copper edge - this can be scraped back and the same trick used. Or, use the large copper pad at the top end of the motherboard (by the GH number which the diagrams will probably point to)and run the wires down to the points below (though then your wires are then needlessly long).
The SCEX point is the wire used for PS1 backup authentication. Link that point to the 'SX' point on the top end of the chip. It is optional to fit it, however PS1 copies will not boot without it...
EDIT: Watch out on the diagram too - use the alternate A, B, G and I points (the ones not on the large BGA with fine legs) - don't connect two sets of wires to those points :)
hey, for the firmware, if I download the one on the matrix site, would I be able to play the backups of my games?
Hi,
Software to enable backups on your Infinity can be gained from the official software download page on the Matrix Teams website at:
http://infinitymod.com/cgi-bin/matrix/site.pl?page=infinity_software
The DEV2 software is also listed at the top of this page if needed.
ToxicOS will not work on the Infinity - it is a DMS only firmware. PS2 mods aren't like XBOX mods where any BIOS can be used - it has to be specific to your device...
P.S. Have you installed the mod yet and it's working correctly?
not yet. I want to do the romeo mod first. I've taken apart the ps2. The romeo mod picture I had only showed where to connect the cable to for the v10 ps2. Not for the v9. The only picture I had for the v9 was this one
http://www.cyber-mag.com/station/laserV9.htm
that only shows the wire trailing to the hole. The solder points are for the v10 console. or am I missing something?
That's the correct picture and the one I would have directed you to myself. That 'hole' is what is known as a VIA - and you have several of these to do on the C/DVD Controller later in the actual chip install (wires B, G and I) as well as now when doing the Romeo mod - so 4 in total. The circuit board is made up of several layers, much like the floors in a house. Therefore, think of the VIA as the staircase which connects the various layers together.
This will take a bit of careful preparation to do correctly. Earlier I described the process of popping up Pin17 on the motherboard. Follow this to raise the leg into position - then we will prep the VIA.
Firstly, take a fibre-glass pencil and scratch the surface of the VIA so the copper underneath looks shiny as opposed to dull as it does now. If you don't have a fibre-glass pencil, use the flat of a Stanley blade *BUT* be careful! Too much rubbing down or if you cut the VIA it could be game over for the board or failing that, a repair job will be in order. Anyway, once the VIA looks 'shiny', coat it with flux to clean the surface of the VIA. Flux also makes the solder and wire apply much easier than without.
Now, take your wire and strip/tin each end. Solder one side to Pin17 of the LA and now take the other half of the wire. Add a little solder to it so it becomes sufficiently 'tinned'. Hold the wire to the surface of the VIA and place your soldering iron tip on the end of the wire. If done correctly, the wire should attach almost instantly. Otherwise, take away the iron and re-prepare the VIA as described above. Don't hold the iron on the VIA for any longer than a few seconds as it will either lift the trace (nasty) or melt the VIA into the board (very nasty and the end of your PS2).
If you follow this however, it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Once the wire does stick, give it a gentle tug to make sure it is properly attached. The wire can then be secured with electrical tape or glue (your choice). However, Before you continue, reassemble the PS2 and test that the tray still ejects etc and discs still read properly. If done correctly, you'll find everything is A-OK and the serious stuff can begin!
hi, on the alt b g and i points, i can't get the wire to stay on that tiny hole. the diagram makes it look a lot bigger lol.
i try to get some solder onto it, but the solder is so thin that it seems to disintegrate or maybe stick onto the tip. Just doesn't stick to the board. I don't think i've damaged the points luckily, but when I try and add the wire onto the hole, it doesn't stay there.
Hi,
Yep... those are the VIAs which are a bit awkward if you're inexperienced. Follow what I say above to do them - just be careful!
If you still can't do them, there's no point trying and trying until you ruin the board, so if that continues to be the case, you may want to consider getting a pro to install...
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